Supoort cloth weaving • to contribute to economic growth

The traditional cloth (Kente) weaving industry has made an impact on the cultural and economic sectors of the Ghanaian economy. Ama Amankwah Baafi writes

Kente weaving in Ghana has been an art in transition and has been handed over from generation to generation, gaining popularity in renowned communities in the Volta, Ashanti and Northern Regions.

The art also houses varied ideologies pertaining to the origination; production and marketing of weaved clothing.

Traditional weaving, as practiced by the various communities has unique features which identifies the crafts of the communities and contributes to the cultural, political and socio-economic development of the country.

Weavers and observers of the industry have said that the sector also contributes to tourism awareness, particularly in identifying the major weaving communities in Ghana and their history.

“Therefore, there is the need to give the sector the needed attention to realize its full potential to contribute to the growth of the economy, particularly when it strip-woven cloth has become a cloth for special occasions,” a weaver, Ms Anacleta Duugle, told the GRAPHIC BUSINESS, at Koforidua, during a skill training programme by the Christian Mothers Association (CMA), a non-governmental Christian women organization in the Catholic Church committed to empowering women.

Besides, she said broadloom technology could be introduced to traditional weavers to enable them weave wider strips to speed up the process.

Anacleta is one of the few women who have broken the jinx to enter the kente weaving sector which was previously dominated by men.  

She hails from Nandom in the Upper East region but is now staying the Afram Plains, precisely, Maame krobo, where for the past 15 years, she has been
weaving traditional northern cloth for a living.


HER MOTIVATION

Her interest to acquire a vocational skill led her to learn the art of weaving cloth. She has since trained eight people and now has three apprentices. 

Her association with the CMA has greatly nurtured her entrepreneurship desire as a woman.

The kente weaving tradition in the north can be said to be unique because of the techniques and high skill employed by the weavers. She said the yarns originally used by Northern weavers were hand spun and dyed locally.

“Unlike industrial spun yarns, dyed hand spun yarns possessed certain features which were significant to the end users. They maintain their bulkiness and handling makes them fluffy. Recently however, there has been the addition of synthetic indigo dye to the natural dye liquor in the dye pits before dyeing commences to increase the colour depth,” she explained.


DESIGN

Unlike the Asante and Ewe weaves which have themes, northern weaves are basically coloured warp stripes mostly in blue, black, white, green and red colours. This attests to the fact that differences exist in terms of the use of colour within a particular region.

Anacleta said mentioned bobbins, shuttle, bobbin winder, shed sticks, spool rack, skein winder, heddle, reed, pulleys, among others as some of the tools she uses. She gets the raw materials from Kumasi and Accra.

The loom (Kore) as known among the Northerners is similar to that of the Asante and the Ewe people. Most of the looms are the immovable types constructed with wood. The looms are constructed by the weavers themselves out of wood cut from the bush.

Anacleta said customers make demand through the selection of the available designs on display and if terms of payment are agreed, she goes ahead to weave the cloth, while some customers also place orders for a particular design to be produced for them.

She has been producing for various groups as well.  Production process starts by doing the wobble, hedley, wreath and weaving. She is able to weave two different pieces of cloth depending on the design.


MARKETING

Strip-woven cloth has now been transformed into bags, shoes, hats, ties, and many other types of apparel, including jewellery. According to Anacleta, marketing is one of the most important aspects of strip weaving in Ghana.

They are sold especially during market days in most weaving communities unlike in the Ashanti Region, where kente is invariably sold at retail shops along the various weaving communities and at the central business centre.

“Interestingly, the prices of the cloth vary depending on who is buying, whether native, Ghanaian or foreigner. Promotion and exhibition of kente cloth are done through cloth festival which is celebrated every two years. 

This helps to promote both old and new methods of weaving, and kente cloth is exhibited for younger generation to adapt. Unfortunately, there is nothing like that for our cloth,” she explained.

She also sells her products to tourists who visit the village occasionally and travels to the North to sell.


CHALLENGES

Her major challenge is how to get access to the funds to expand her business. 

“Such support should not only come from the government but from other agencies that have the economic interest of women at heart. If this happens we may be able to buy raw materials in bulk and so cut down on transportation, as we are now compelled to travel often,” she said.

At times, she is forced to rely on clients for advance payment to produce. Also, they should be assisted to market their products abroad. She has never participated in any fair or exhibition before, even locally.


ACHIEVEMENTS AND DESIRE

Anacleta has been able to put up a five-bedroom house. When people appreciate her works it makes her proud and feel happy, especially when clients put on her designs and others inquire and follow up to her to also place orders.

While in school, she was committed to her vocation such that she won the first prize after a competition. But for this job, it would have been difficult for her to make a living and cater for her child and other family members after her marriage broke down.

She has plans to sell in Accra and other major cities when she has been able to expand and employ more people.

EDUCATION AND FAMILY BACKGROUND
 
She attended St Clare Vocation School in Tumu, in the Upper West region and Fioumua Primary and Junior High School at Fioumua in the Nandom, in the Upper East region.

She is the first of six children and has a male child.

Anacleta advised the youth, especially, those in her area who she observed do not like to learn a trade, because they think it is time consuming, to reconsider their decision and endeavour to acquire some vocation skills to be able earn meaningful living. GB

Writer’s email ama.baafi@graphic.com.gh